整備土壤

評估土壤狀況，並透過改良、堆肥與生物活化，建立健康、活生之土。

適用時機

• 開新畦時，需評估既有土壤
• 雖供水供光皆足而植株表現不佳（土壤恐為主因）
• 欲自慣行轉至有機或生物動力法
• 土壤已板結、貧化或疏水
• 需建堆肥系統
• 欲施生物動力配方（500-508）

輸入

• 必要：可達待評之土壤（菜畦、田地或盆器）
• 選擇性：當前土壤檢測結果（pH、N-P-K、有機質 %）
• 選擇性：園圃歷史（往昔作物、所施改良、耕作年數）
• 選擇性：擬種之目標作物
• 選擇性：路線偏好（有機、生物動力、樸門）

步驟

步驟一：評估土壤

以下三項田野測試無需實驗室——三者皆作。

Test 1: Jar Test (Texture — Sand/Silt/Clay Ratio)
1. Fill a quart jar 1/3 full with soil from 15cm depth
2. Fill to top with water, add 1 tablespoon dish soap
3. Shake vigorously for 3 minutes, then set on level surface
4. Read layers after settling:
   - Sand settles in 1 minute (bottom layer)
   - Silt settles in 4-6 hours (middle layer)
   - Clay settles in 24-48 hours (top layer)
5. Measure each layer as % of total soil depth
   - Ideal garden soil: ~40% sand, ~40% silt, ~20% clay (loam)

Test 2: Spade Test (Structure and Compaction)
1. Push a spade into moist soil to full depth (25cm)
2. Lever up a block of soil and place on a board
3. Observe:
   - Crumbles easily → good structure
   - Breaks into angular blocks → compacted
   - Smears or is sticky → too much clay or waterlogged
   - Layers visible → hardpan or plough pan present
4. Smell the soil:
   - Sweet, earthy → healthy aerobic biology
   - Sour, sulphurous → anaerobic conditions (drainage problem)

Test 3: Earthworm Count (Biological Activity)
1. Dig a 30cm × 30cm × 30cm cube of soil
2. Place on a tarp or board
3. Gently break apart and count earthworms
   - 0-5: Poor biology — needs organic matter
   - 5-10: Fair — improving but not yet thriving
   - 10-20: Good — healthy biological activity
   - 20+: Excellent — this soil is alive

預期： 對土壤之質地、結構與生物之清晰圖像。一個 jar test 結果、一個結構評等、一個蚯蚓計數。

失敗時： 若 jar test 之分層難辨，以更清水與更猛力搖動重作。若蚯蚓為零且土有酸味，土可能為厭氧——須先解決排水方可改良。

步驟二：診斷並擬改良計畫

使評估對應改良計畫。

Amendment by Soil Type:
┌────────────────┬─────────────────────────┬──────────────────────────────┐
│ Diagnosis      │ Symptoms                │ Amendment                    │
├────────────────┼─────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────┤
│ Heavy clay     │ Sticky, slow drainage,  │ Gypsum (calcium sulfate)     │
│                │ >40% clay in jar test   │ 1 kg/m², worked into top     │
│                │                         │ 15cm. Add coarse compost.    │
│                │                         │ Plant daikon radish to break │
│                │                         │ hardpan biologically.        │
├────────────────┼─────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────┤
│ Sandy          │ Drains instantly, won't │ Compost 5-10cm thick, worked │
│                │ hold moisture, <20%     │ into top 20cm. Add biochar   │
│                │ silt+clay in jar test   │ (pre-charged with compost    │
│                │                         │ tea) for moisture retention.  │
├────────────────┼─────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────┤
│ Depleted       │ Pale colour, low worm   │ 10cm compost top-dress.      │
│                │ count, poor growth      │ Cover crop (legume mix) for  │
│                │ despite watering        │ nitrogen fixation. Foliar    │
│                │                         │ seaweed spray monthly.       │
├────────────────┼─────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────┤
│ Compacted      │ Angular blocks in spade │ Broadfork (not rototiller)   │
│                │ test, surface pooling,  │ to fracture without          │
│                │ hard when dry           │ inverting. Deep mulch (15cm  │
│                │                         │ wood chips on paths). Plant  │
│                │                         │ deep-rooted comfrey.         │
├────────────────┼─────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────┤
│ Acidic (pH<6)  │ Blueberries thrive but  │ Wood ash (light application) │
│                │ brassicas struggle      │ or dolomite lime. Test pH    │
│                │                         │ before and after — adjust    │
│                │                         │ slowly over 2 seasons.       │
├────────────────┼─────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────┤
│ Alkaline (pH>7)│ Iron chlorosis (yellow  │ Elemental sulphur or acidic  │
│                │ leaves, green veins)    │ compost (pine needles, oak   │
│                │                         │ leaves). Very slow to shift. │
└────────────────┴─────────────────────────┴──────────────────────────────┘

預期： 一份對應所診之具體改良計畫。

失敗時： 若多病並見（如黏重又貧化），先處理結構（石膏 + broadfork），再處理生物（堆肥 + 覆作）。一次處理全部會讓土壤難以承受。

步驟三：建堆肥

依可用空間、材料與時程擇法。

Composting Methods:
┌────────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┬─────────────────────────┐
│ Method         │ Time to      │ Space Needed │ Best For                │
│                │ Finished     │              │                         │
├────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ Hot compost    │ 4-8 weeks    │ 1m³ minimum  │ Large gardens, weed     │
│                │              │              │ seed / disease kill      │
├────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ Cold compost   │ 6-12 months  │ Any size     │ Low effort, small       │
│                │              │              │ quantities              │
├────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ Vermicompost   │ 3-6 months   │ 0.5m² indoor │ Kitchen scraps, indoor  │
│                │              │              │ / apartment gardens     │
└────────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┴─────────────────────────┘

Hot Compost Protocol:
1. Build pile in layers — 2 parts brown (carbon) to 1 part green (nitrogen)
   - Brown: dried leaves, straw, cardboard, wood chips
   - Green: kitchen scraps, fresh grass, manure, coffee grounds
2. Moisten each layer (damp sponge consistency)
3. Pile must be at least 1m × 1m × 1m to reach temperature
4. Internal temperature should reach 55-65°C (130-150°F) within 3-5 days
5. Turn pile when temperature drops below 45°C (every 5-7 days)
6. After 3-4 turns, cure for 2-4 weeks without turning
7. Finished compost: dark, crumbly, smells like forest floor, no recognizable inputs

Never Compost:
- Meat, dairy, oils (attract pests)
- Diseased plant material (unless hot compost reaches 60°C+ for 3 days)
- Treated wood, glossy paper
- Pet waste (pathogen risk)

預期： 堆肥系統已建，首批正在進行。

失敗時： 若熱堆肥不升溫：檢水分（過乾或過濕）、檢 C:N 比（加綠以增氮）、檢堆量（< 1m³ 不易升溫）。

步驟四：實行免耕與覆作

不翻土而保護並建立土壤結構。

No-Till Sheet Mulching (New Bed from Lawn or Weeds):
1. Mow or scythe existing vegetation as low as possible
2. Layer cardboard (overlapping edges) directly on ground — no gaps
3. Wet cardboard thoroughly
4. Add 5cm compost on top of cardboard
5. Add 10-15cm organic mulch (straw, wood chips, leaves)
6. Wait 3-6 months (autumn application → spring planting)
7. Plant through mulch by pulling it aside — do not till

Cover Crop Quick Reference:
┌─────────────────┬────────────────┬───────────────────────────────┐
│ Crop            │ Season         │ Benefit                       │
├─────────────────┼────────────────┼───────────────────────────────┤
│ Crimson clover  │ Autumn sow     │ Nitrogen fixation, bee forage │
│ Winter rye      │ Autumn sow     │ Biomass, weed suppression     │
│ Buckwheat       │ Summer sow     │ Fast cover, phosphorus mining │
│ Phacelia        │ Spring/autumn  │ Pollinator magnet, breaks up  │
│                 │                │ compaction                    │
│ Daikon radish   │ Autumn sow     │ Deep root breaks hardpan,     │
│                 │                │ decomposes in place over      │
│                 │                │ winter (bio-drill)            │
└─────────────────┴────────────────┴───────────────────────────────┘

Terminate cover crops by:
- Crimp and roll (best — leaves roots in place)
- Scythe and lay as mulch
- Never rototill — this destroys the soil structure you're building

預期： 土壤終年受護、生物未受擾、有機質漸增。

失敗時： 若覆作未能立成，檢播種深度（多數宜表面或淺播）與水分。再播或以厚覆蓋為替代之地表保護。

步驟五：生物動力配方（選擇性——進階）

供 Demeter 或生物動力法之修習者。

Biodynamic Preparations Overview:
┌──────┬───────────────┬──────────────────────┬─────────────────────────┐
│ Prep │ Material      │ Application          │ Purpose                 │
├──────┼───────────────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ 500  │ Horn manure   │ Spray on soil,       │ Stimulate soil biology,  │
│      │               │ autumn & spring      │ root growth, humus      │
├──────┼───────────────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ 501  │ Horn silica   │ Spray on foliage,    │ Light metabolism, fruit  │
│      │               │ morning, summer      │ quality, ripening       │
├──────┼───────────────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ 502  │ Yarrow        │ Added to compost     │ Sulphur and potassium   │
│ 503  │ Chamomile     │ Added to compost     │ Calcium, stabilizes N   │
│ 504  │ Stinging nettle│ Added to compost    │ Iron, stimulates soil   │
│ 505  │ Oak bark      │ Added to compost     │ Calcium, disease resist │
│ 506  │ Dandelion     │ Added to compost     │ Silica, light forces    │
│ 507  │ Valerian      │ Sprayed on compost   │ Warmth, phosphorus      │
├──────┼───────────────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ 508  │ Horsetail tea │ Spray on foliage     │ Fungal disease prevent  │
└──────┴───────────────┴──────────────────────┴─────────────────────────┘

Preparation 500 Application:
1. Stir 100g horn manure in 35 litres warm water
2. Stir dynamically for 1 hour — create vortex, reverse, create vortex
   (alternating direction every minute)
3. Apply within 1 hour of stirring
4. Spray in large droplets on soil surface — late afternoon, descending moon
5. Apply autumn (before winter) and early spring (before sowing)

Note: Biodynamic preparations are available from certified suppliers
or local biodynamic farming groups. Making your own requires the
previous season's preparations and specific animal horn sheaths.

預期： 配方已於正確時間與月相施用。土壤生物之活化於 1-2 季內可見。

失敗時： 若無配方可得，良好之堆肥與覆作已能達 80% 之生物效益。配方為加分項，不能替代健全之土壤管理。

步驟六：療癒檢查點——改良後評估

改良後六週重新評估土壤。

Post-Amendment Soil Health Check:
1. Repeat the spade test:
   - Has structure improved? (Crumbles more easily)
   - Are roots penetrating deeper?
   - Any remaining hardpan layers?

2. Repeat the earthworm count:
   - Has the count increased? (Even 2-3 more is progress)
   - Are worms distributed through the depth or just at surface?

3. Drainage test:
   - Dig a 30cm hole, fill with water, let drain, refill
   - Second fill should drain within 1-4 hours
   - <1 hour: very free draining (may need more organic matter)
   - >4 hours: still compacted or clay-heavy (continue treatment)

4. Surface observation:
   - Fungal threads visible in mulch layer? (Good — decomposition active)
   - Green algae on surface? (Too wet or too compacted)
   - Mulch layer breaking down? (Biology is working)

Triage:
- All improving → Continue current approach, reassess next season
- Structure improved but worms low → Add more diverse organic matter
- Worms present but drainage poor → Broadfork again, add coarse material
- No improvement → Soil may have contamination — consider lab test for heavy metals

預期： 三項指標（結構、生物、排水）至少二項可量測之改善。

失敗時： 若六週後無進步，問題恐深於表土改良所及。考慮以含外購土之高架床作為平行策略，同時於數季持續改善地中之土壤。

驗證

• 三項田野測試皆已完成（jar、spade、earthworm）
• 已自測試結果正確診斷土壤類型
• 改良計畫對應所診情狀
• 堆肥系統已建（hot、cold 或 vermi）
• 土壤終年受覆（覆蓋、覆作或活植物）
• 無旋耕或翻土
• 改良後 6 週已執行 heal 檢查點
• 園圃日誌已記錄測試結果與所施改良

常見陷阱

1. 未測即施：隨意改良費財又會加劇失衡。永遠先測。
2. 旋耕：感覺有效，實則破壞土壤結構、殺蚯蚓、把雜草種子翻至表面。如必鬆土，改用 broadfork。
3. 裸地：暴露之土流失水分、結構與生物。永以覆蓋或覆作護之。
4. 新糞直入畦：燒根並引病原。所有糞應堆肥至少 6 個月再接觸土。
5. 未測 pH 而施石灰：過石灰使養分不可用。僅依實測結果調 pH。
6. 期望即見成效：建土以季與年計，非以週計。

相關技能

• cultivate-bonsai —— 盆景土（赤玉土／浮石／熔岩）為一種專門之土壤備齊
• plan-garden-calendar —— 改良時機與季節曆對齊（秋施石灰、春施堆肥）
• read-garden —— 土壤觀察為園圃讀法之一環
• heal —— 改良後評估循 heal 之分類流程
• forage-plants —— 識土壤－植物關係，助讀野生植物棲地
• make-fire —— 火後之木灰為傳統之土壤改良劑（鉀 + 石灰）