make-fire
About
This skill enables starting and maintaining fires in wilderness settings using friction, spark, and solar methods. It covers material preparation, fire lay construction, multiple ignition techniques, and Leave No Trace extinguishing. Developers should use it for scenarios requiring warmth, light, water purification, cooking, or emergency signaling.
Quick Install
Claude Code
Recommendednpx skills add pjt222/agent-almanac -a claude-code/plugin add https://github.com/pjt222/agent-almanacgit clone https://github.com/pjt222/agent-almanac.git ~/.claude/skills/make-fireCopy and paste this command in Claude Code to install this skill
Documentation
取火
於野外,用所攜與所取之材,舉火而守之。
用時
- 野中需暖、需明、需號乃用
- 欲煮水以潔之(參
purify-water)乃用 - 欲炊所獵所採之食(參
forage-plants)乃用 - 危急求生,需熱、需氣者乃用
入
- 必要:生火之具(鎂棒、燧石鋼、火柴、鑽弓具、或凸鏡)
- 必要:乾燥之引火材(取於自然或所攜)
- 可選:地之所限(風向、土性、上覆之枝)
- 可選:火之所為(取暖、炊食、發號、潔水)
法
第一步:擇地而治之
擇地安全、適用、少擾於自然者。
Site Selection Criteria:
┌─────────────────────┬────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Factor │ Requirement │
├─────────────────────┼────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Wind │ Sheltered or with a windbreak │
│ Ground │ Mineral soil, rock, or sand │
│ Overhead clearance │ No branches within 3 m / 10 ft │
│ Distance from water │ At least 5 m / 15 ft from streams │
│ Distance from camp │ Close enough for use, far enough │
│ │ to avoid spark hazards to gear │
│ Drainage │ Slight slope or flat; avoid hollows│
│ │ where rain pools │
└─────────────────────┴────────────────────────────────────┘
徑約一米之圓,清至礦土。若於雪地或濕土,以生木或平石築臺。
得:地已清、已平,圓內無可燃之物,上空無礙,風有蔽。
敗則:若無合適之土,取生木腕粗者四至六,並置為臺。若風過強,積木石或張布四十五度以為屏。
第二步:聚材而分級
聚材為三類,各依乾與粗分級。
Material Grading:
┌──────────┬──────────────────┬──────────────┬───────────────────────────┐
│ Category │ Diameter │ Examples │ Quantity needed │
├──────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────┼───────────────────────────┤
│ Tinder │ Hair-thin fibers │ Birch bark, │ Two fist-sized bundles │
│ │ │ dried grass, │ │
│ │ │ cedar bark, │ │
│ │ │ fatwood │ │
│ │ │ shavings, │ │
│ │ │ cattail fluff│ │
├──────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────┼───────────────────────────┤
│ Kindling │ Pencil-thin to │ Dead twigs, │ Two armfuls, sorted by │
│ │ finger-thick │ split sticks │ thickness │
├──────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────┼───────────────────────────┤
│ Fuel │ Wrist-thick to │ Dead standing│ Enough for intended burn │
│ │ arm-thick │ wood, split │ time (1 armload ≈ 1 hr) │
│ │ │ logs │ │
└──────────┴──────────────────┴──────────────┴───────────────────────────┘
Dryness Test:
- Snap test: dry wood snaps cleanly; damp wood bends
- Sound test: dry wood clicks when struck together; damp wood thuds
- Source priority: dead standing > dead leaning > dead on dry ground > dead on wet ground
得:三堆已分,距火地咫尺可取。引火者乾如骨,析至極細。柴折而清脆者為佳。
敗則:若所得引火者皆濕,以刃刮樹內皮(柏、樺、楊)為細絲。松脂木(死松之脂心)雖濕猶燃。若實窮,用所攜之助燃(塗凡士林之棉、蠟紙)。
第三步:築火形
依其用與其境擇火形。
Fire Lay Decision Table:
┌──────────────┬──────────────────────┬──────────────────────────┐
│ Fire Lay │ Best for │ Construction │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Teepee │ Quick start, boiling │ Lean kindling against │
│ │ water, signaling │ a central tinder bundle │
│ │ │ in a cone shape │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Log cabin │ Sustained heat, │ Stack pairs of sticks in │
│ │ cooking, drying │ alternating layers like │
│ │ │ a cabin; tinder in center│
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Lean-to │ Windy conditions │ Push a green stick into │
│ │ │ ground at 30°; lean │
│ │ │ kindling against it with │
│ │ │ tinder underneath │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Platform │ Snow/wet ground │ Lay green logs side by │
│ │ │ side as a base; build │
│ │ │ teepee or log cabin on │
│ │ │ top │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Star/Radial │ Long burns with │ Lay 4-5 logs radiating │
│ │ minimal fuel │ from center like spokes; │
│ │ │ push inward as they burn │
└──────────────┴──────────────────────┴──────────────────────────┘
留隙以通氣。火需氧也——聚材宜疏,勿緊。
得:結構穩而引火者便於點,氣隙既足,柴之排列使焰得層層升進,自引火而柴而薪。
敗則:若崩,取支杖立地為中柱。若通氣不善(煙而不焰),開材間之隙,使迎風之底有口。
第四步:點其引火
依所具之器擇點火之法。
Ignition Methods (ranked by reliability):
┌───────────────┬────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Method │ Technique │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Lighter/match │ Apply flame directly to tinder for 5-10 sec │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Ferro rod │ Hold rod against tinder; scrape striker down │
│ │ rod at 45° with firm, fast strokes; direct │
│ │ sparks into center of tinder bundle │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Flint & steel │ Strike steel against flint edge to cast sparks │
│ │ onto char cloth laid on tinder │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Bow drill │ Carve fireboard notch; place tinder below; │
│ │ spin spindle with bow using steady, full-length│
│ │ strokes until coal forms in notch │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Solar (lens) │ Focus sunlight through lens onto dark tinder; │
│ │ hold steady until smoke appears; gently blow │
└───────────────┴────────────────────────────────────────────────┘
得:引火者於火花或焰觸之三十秒內發紅炭,或起微焰。
敗則:若火花落而引火者不燃,其濕或過粗也。再細析之(刮、撕、絨)。用鎂棒者,先刮鎂屑於其上為助燃。用鑽弓者,軸與火板宜同為乾軟木(柳、柏、楊),凹須至軸壓之中心。
第五步:養其焰
引火既燃,自炭至焰宜慎而轉之。
- 若有紅炭(鑽弓、燧石鋼),裹引火於炭外,緩緩吹之,氣漸強而焰現
- 置燃之引火束於已築之火形
- 以身或屏蔽風
- 先添最細之柴——鉛筆粗者逐枝置於焰觸之處
- 前者燃全,方續添之
得:焰自引火登最細之柴,一二分鐘之內。啪剝之聲,示其自續矣。
敗則:若至細柴而焰滅,柴過粗或過濕也。以刃析細之,或獨取最乾最細者。若焰悶窒,火形過密——輕提其材以通氣。勿力吹而散其炭。
第六步:進至薪木
漸增其材之粗。
- 細柴穩燃(二三分鐘持續之焰),乃添指粗之枝
- 俟其全燃,再添腕粗之木
- 置薪使氣通:相倚或交疊
- 若為炊,待火降為炭床(二三十分鐘),方置鍋灶
Fuel Progression:
Tinder → Pencil-thin → Finger-thick → Wrist-thick → Arm-thick
(each stage must be established before adding the next)
得:火穩而自續,熱恆久,可每十五至三十分鐘添薪以守之。
敗則:若添大木則火輒滅,進階太速也。退一級,養更厚之炭床而後升。若木嘶而冒蒸,其過濕也——析之以露乾心,或近火(勿於火上)置之以乾,再添之。
第七步:滅其火而不留痕
Extinguishing Protocol:
1. Stop adding fuel 30-60 min before you need the fire out
2. Let wood burn down to ash
3. Spread coals and ash with a stick
4. Douse with water (pour, stir, pour again)
5. Feel with the back of your hand 10 cm / 4 in above the ashes
6. If any warmth is felt, repeat douse-stir-douse
7. When cold to touch, scatter the ash over a wide area
8. Replace any ground cover or duff that was moved
9. "Could someone walk by and not know a fire was here?"
得:火地觸之冷,無炭可見,地貌如未經擾。
敗則:若無水,以礦土覆之(勿用有機腐葉,恐其陰燃)。攪而反驗。未冷勿離其地。炭埋於深灰,盡除其灰而澆其露炭。
驗
- 火地已清至礦土,或已築臺
- 點火之前,材已聚而分三級
- 火形之築通氣有餘
- 引火已燃,轉至柴而不滅
- 火至自續薪階
- 火全滅——觸之冷,無可見之炭
- 地復其原狀,不留痕
陷
- 引火濕:敗之最常者也。引火宜析至細於所以為必者,取於立死之材
- 以薪悶之:薪過多過速則斷氣。宜漸次而進
- 忽於風:風能助火,亦能殺火。用其氣流,點火之際蔽之
- 材未分:引火燃而尋柴,耗危急之時。擊花之前盡聚而分之
- 濕土傳熱:雖乾木置濕土亦失熱。濕境宜築臺
- 滅之不盡:埋炭可復燃於數時之後。必驗其冷觸
參
purify-water— 煮水需續火,其煮法賴此技forage-plants— 諸草可供引火(樺皮、蒲絨、乾草),某食須炊paper-making— 以草纖手製紙也,其纖之備與搗與取引火之備共一法
GitHub Repository
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